‘Every Chef Ought to Learn At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Best Dining Destinations.
When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.
A Shocking Accolade
The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors completely shocked.
“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop achieving such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.
A Appeal of Simplicity
This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.
A Star Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent texture.
The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.
The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.
Rising Above the Stars
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.
Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.
A Ethos of Warmth
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.
“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
The view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Path of Dedication
Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
A Achievement for the Community
The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.